Peptides in skincare: what do they do? Peptides are one of the most talked-about ingredients in the field of anti-ageing skincare. When applied to your skin, they demonstrate remarkable benefits: revitalising and making it stronger and more resilient. What you can expect: What are peptides? What do peptides do for skin? Key benefits Peptides in skincare: the multi-ingredient approach Hyaluronic acid and peptides: which is better? Can peptides be used with BHA? What are collagen peptides? How to choose peptide skincare products What are copper peptides for skin: facts and myths Conclusion about peptides for skin The original version of this article was reviewed by Dr. Debra Jaliman, MD, USA What are peptides? Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as building blocks of proteins such as collagen, elastin and keratin. These proteins are the foundations of your skin and are responsible for its texture, strength and resilience. Without peptides, skin is less intact, which can lead to a loss of firmness, the appearance of wrinkles, a change in texture and less ‘bounce’. When applied topically, peptides act as little messengers, triggering skin cells to perform specific functions such as building collagen and elastin, encouraging skin to look and act younger. Extensive scientific research has proven that peptides can support your skin on multiple levels, including firming, soothing and hydrating. What do peptides do for skin? Key benefits Peptides in skincare products can offer a multitude of benefits including: Improved skin barrier Faded fine lines and wrinkles Improved skin elasticity Supports the reduction of skin redness, irritation and inflammation Minimises breakouts Feel free to ignore anything you hear about one ‘special peptide’ or ‘best peptide mix’, because this simply does not exist. There are many remarkable peptides, and more and more are being discovered (or made in a laboratory). If you combine peptides with antioxidants, moisturising and skin-repairing ingredients, you can expect to see fantastic results against multiple signs of skin ageing. Peptides in skincare: the multi-ingredient approach While it’s clear that peptides are special, they are not enough to transform your skin as an isolated ingredient. At Paula’s Choice, we take a multi-ingredient ‘cocktail’ approach to skincare. This means the skincare products you invest in should also contain other effective ingredients, such as antioxidants and skin-repairing ingredients. If your goal is smoother, softer, more hydrated, firmer and younger-looking skin, you will need to use more than just peptides. For example, our Peptide Booster is a blend of six unique peptides, supported by amino acids and other skin-replenishing ingredients. Hyaluronic acid and peptides: which is better? Both hyaluronic acid and peptides perform a similar role of absorbing and retaining moisture and neither can be considered ‘better’. However, there are a few key differences between the benefits offered by these two ingredients, which means it’s good to combine them for smoother skin. Can peptides be used with BHA? It's a common myth that exfoliating skincare ingredients, like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), break down all peptides, rendering them ineffective. The truth is that there are hundreds of peptides and while some may be vulnerable to this, many will not. When formulated properly with compatible pH levels and stabilisation in mind, peptides and skincare acids can (and should) be used together. Each peptide that Paula's Choice chooses to formulate with can be used alongside skincare acids while remaining effective in the pH range that hydroxy acids require to exfoliate skin. Because of this, these hand-selected peptides also remain stable when skin’s pH is temporarily lowered by use of a hydroxy acid-based exfoliant. However, some acids are particularly adept at breaking down peptides. Strong acids, like hydrochloric acid (a gastric acid found in our digestive system), can break down peptides through a process called acid hydrolysis. Breaking down peptides and other compounds is what these strong acids are designed to do, especially for processes like digesting proteins in the foods we eat. What are collagen peptides? Recently collagen peptides have gotten a lot of attention – both in supplements and in topical skincare products. Yet there’s a bit of misunderstanding when it comes to the benefits of collagen peptides (also referred to as hydrolyzed collagen). Unfortunately, for topical use, this specific form of peptide cannot help prompt collagen regeneration. Its molecule size is just too large to penetrate skin. However, this doesn’t mean that it’s not beneficial to skin. This buzzworthy ingredient functions as a humectant, meaning it helps attract and bind water to the skin, increasing hydration. In turn, this promotes a dewy, smooth appearance (8). Research shows these peptides (which can be extracted either from plant or animal collagen) have benefits when used in both topical and supplement applications. How to choose peptide skincare products Finding a product that combines the power of peptides with protective packaging and a mix of great supporting ingredients might prove tricky, but we’re about to help you solve this skin mystery. Firstly, peptides are best when formulated in leave-on products like serums. The length of exposure to skin that leave-on products allow make them the best way for peptides to deliver their unique range of benefits. Look for peptides in moisturisers, serums, boosters, eye creams, sunscreens and other skin concern treatments. When peptides are included in rinse-off products, like cleansers, this diverse group of ingredients isn’t given the opportunity to hydrate, replenish or nourish. As quickly as they’re applied, they’re rinsed off. But that’s not all you should consider. Packaging and formulation are just as important as product type. Peptides are powerhouses, but much like retinol and vitamin C, they work best when formulated with supporting ingredients, like ceramides and hyaluronic acid. All of this means nothing if the formula is not housed in an airtight, opaque container. Light and air degrade the quality of most peptides, so skip anything kept in clear jars. What are copper peptides for skin: facts and myths Copper peptide is one of the most raved-about skincare ingredients. The hype began because the building blocks of your skin are formed by copper, so it’s based on an assumption that you need copper peptide in your skincare products to repair your skin. While it’s true that copper peptide is a skin-restoring ingredient, there are many other peptides with the same if not more impressive properties. The benefits of copper peptide for skin are proven, but in those studies, it is rarely compared with other peptides or other key ingredients, such as powerful antioxidants. And with so many ingredients proven to benefit skin, it’s important not to focus on a single one. Interestingly, there is also research which shows that copper is potentially toxic. However, the research focuses mainly on the application of pure copper to the skin, and not as a peptide. Conclusion about peptides for skin Peptides are an essential ingredient in the fight against ageing and should be part of your everyday skincare arsenal, as the need for cells to behave as healthy young cells requires daily attention. But remember to use skincare products with a cocktail of beneficial ingredients, as well as daily sun protection, and not just one. This is the best thing you can do for the health and appearance of your skin. Used sources: Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, April 2016, supplement, pages 63-71 Bulletin of Experimental Biology and Medicine, May 2016, edition 1, pages 175-178 ChemMedChem, August 2016, edition 16, pages 1850-1855 Clinical Chemistry and Laboratory Medicine, April 2013, pages 1-8 Biological Trace Element Research, August 2013, edition 2, pages 268-274 Dermato Endocrinology, July 2012, edition 3, pages 308-319 https://www.healthline.com/health/peptides-for-skin#benefits Materials, September 2020, ePublication