Your guide to retinoid and retinol strengths Topical retinoids, including retinol, are research-proven anti-ageing powerhouses that can benefit nearly everyone’s skin. But it isn’t all about giving a youthful look. They also offer many benefits from tackling uneven tone to texture, and they are available in formulations that suit a wide range of skin types & concerns. But their use comes with questions: What strength should you use for wrinkles or other signs of ageing? When and how often should these products be applied? Is a higher percentage always better? As always, we’ll give you the research-based solutions. Retinol vs retinoid strength: what’s the difference? Think of "retinoid" as a blanket term for all vitamin A derivatives. Retinol is just one form, though probably the most well-known. Other popular variations include retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, and retinaldehyde. These ingredients must be converted into retinoic acid to work with the skin. This is important because 0.1% retinol isn’t the same as 0.1% retinaldehyde. Retinol requires two conversion steps, whereas retinaldehyde (AKA retinal) only requires one. Because retinaldehyde is closer to retinoic acid, it is stronger at the same percentage. Different retinol & retinoid strengths Low strength retinol & retinoid These bioactive skincare ingredients don’t need to be at high concentrations to show results. Research indicates that even 0.1% retinol improves multiple signs of ageing, refines pores, and enhances overall skin appearance. Typically, lower-strength options range from 0.01% to 0.1%, with other derivatives varying slightly. Paired with antioxidants, milder strengths also help defend against environmental damage when used under a broad-spectrum SPF during the day. When to choose low-strength retinol & retinoid products You’re a beginner to retinoids (including retinol) You have sensitive skin You’d like to promote healthy skin function & improve early, minor signs of ageing If any of these apply, our RESIST Intensive Repair Cream is a great place to start. It features stable, pure retinol at a gentle concentration, combined with soothing plant extracts and antioxidants in a silky serum texture. This formula helps soften fine lines, brighten and replenish the skin. These treatments aren’t limited to the face—they can also be applied to the body. Available in different textures like serums and lotions, they can be tailored to personal preferences. Medium strength retinol & retinoid products If your concerns include uneven skin tone, loss of firmness, fine lines and wrinkles, a medium-strength formula may be the right choice. These (typically 0.2% to 0.4%) work faster than lower concentrations to improve signs of ageing, environmental damage and thinning skin. When to choose medium-strength retinol & retinoids products You have successfully used low-strength retinoids before and are ready to ramp up visible results You have anti-ageing concerns or would like to target texture, bumps & uneven tone We offer two stand-out medium-strength formulas: Our RESIST Triple Active Total Repair Serum is a potent blend of retinyl propionate, niacinamide and hexylresorcinol. This light, hydrating serum signals skin to renew & re-energise, resulting in visibly improved lines, discolouration & firmness. The CLINICAL 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment highlights a collagen-supporting blend of retinol, bakuchiol and peptides to target fine lines, deep wrinkles, enlarged pores and loss of firmness. High strength retinol & retinoid products If you have more persistent skin concerns, consider a higher-strength formula. Deeper fine lines, crepey skin, stubborn tone issues, and textural irregularities can benefit from stronger options (0.5% to 1.0%) that provide more dramatic results in a faster delivery. When to choose high-strength retinol & retinoids You can tolerate medium-strength retinoids well You are looking for dramatic improvements to stubborn skin concerns, like deeper wrinkles and dark spots You want to achieve faster results Paula’s Choice Skincare’s CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment contains a high-strength level of potent controlled-release retinol that goes to work immediately to visibly refine pore size and diminish the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and uneven skin tone. Pro strength Pro-strength retinoid formulas build on the power of over-the-counter vitamin A offerings with advanced ingredient and formula technology. They allow you to achieve results close to prescription-strength, tackling advanced signs of ageing and helping target more specific concerns related to texture and blemishes. When to choose pro-strength retinol & retinoid products You are an advanced retinol or retinoid user & looking for prescription-like results You are looking to target specific concerns with minimised irritation Your main skin concern is advanced ageing You have acne-prone skin Our CLINICAL PRO Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment uses next-generation retinoid technology that combines retinaldehyde and oleyl adapalenate (Adapinoid®) to support cell renewal for visibly smoother, clearer & younger-looking skin. This first-of-its-kind treatment tempers irritation with a slow-release formula that also uses encapsulation for optimised efficacy & tolerability. Basically, you get advanced results with minimal risk of irritation. What strength of retinoid should I use? There’s not a one-size-fits-all answer and your skin type, concerns, and tolerance level matter most. Start with a lower strength and adjust based on how your skin responds. To determine your tolerance, experiment with different strengths and application methods and see how your skin responds – beginning with a lower concentration. Beginners (& sensitive skin) will most likely respond best to low-strength formulas If you’re noticing intermediate signs of ageing and environmental damage, a medium-strength option is a good choice High strength & pro strength work for anyone with more stubborn concerns related to ageing, bumps, texture & tone When to increase retinol strength Using these products is a marathon, not a sprint. Jumping too quickly to a higher percentage can cause irritation and slow progress. A "low and slow" approach is best. Start with a lower concentration two-to-three times a week, gradually increasing as your skin builds tolerance. If using in the morning, always follow with broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher. If you’re happy with your results, there’s no need to step up. However, if concerns persist or you want faster improvements, you can consider moving to the next level, always following the gradual introduction method. Retinoid and retinol tips & tricks Topical vitamin A products are multi-tasking skincare powerhouses; however, they can be tricky to apply, tolerate & generate results if you’re new to retinoids so be sure to: Choose opaque & airtight packaging to prevent exposure to air and light, which can reduce effectiveness Avoid fragranced formulas as volatile aromatic compounds can irritate skin Monitor your routine when pairing with BHA, AHA, vitamin C & niacinamide; adjust frequency if irritation occurs Try the sandwich method (moisturiser before & after application) if sensitivity arises Avoid during pregnancy or breastfeeding Consider bakuchiol as a gentler alternative if retinoids aren’t well-tolerated With the right approach, retinoid-based skincare can be a game-changer for a wide range of skin types and concerns. References for this information: Clinical Interventions in Aging, December 2006, pages 327-348 Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, March 2015, pages 271-280 Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2015, pages 40-46 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, December 2022, pages 625-635